How to Print High-Quality Magic: The Gathering Proxies
Disclaimer: *This guide is for educational purposes and creating proxies for personal use in casual play environments (like Commander nights or Cubes) where they are permitted by the group. Selling counterfeit cards is illegal and violates copyright laws. Always support Wizards of the Coast by purchasing official products when possible.*
In the Magic: The Gathering (MTG) community, "proxies" generally refer to two things: high-quality stand-ins for expensive cards (like a $1000 Underground Sea) used in Commander decks, or custom cards created by the community. While Wizards of the Coast has cracked down on the sale of counterfeit cards, printing proxies for personal use remains a popular way to enjoy the game without spending thousands of dollars.
Below is the technical, step-by-step process to create "perfect" Magic proxies that look and feel indistinguishable from real cards to the naked eye.
---
Understanding the Anatomy of a Magic Card
Before you hit "print," you must understand what you are trying to replicate. A standard MTG card is not just paper; it is a composite material designed for durability and opacity.
- Dimensions: 63mm x 88mm (2.5" x 3.5").
- Thickness: Approximately 0.305mm (12 points).
- Composition: A blue or black core sandwiched between two layers of white card stock. This "core" is what prevents the card from being see-through (the "light test").
- Finish: The "Lincoln" finish—a proprietary non-foil varnish that isn't quite gloss, but isn't matte. It has a specific micro-texture.
- Discord Servers: Many "Custom Magic" or "Proxy" Discord servers have dedicated channels with repositories of scanned cards.
- Set Downloads: Some sites host full zipped files of specific sets (e.g., "Masterpieces") scanned at 300 DPI.
- Bleed and Crop Marks: Real MTG cards have a very small border. If your printer is even slightly misaligned, you will end up with a white edge on one side. You must add a "bleed" area (an extra 1-2mm of the background image) to ensure the image goes all the way to the edge.
- CMS (Card Management System): Tools like *MSE (Magic Set Editor)* or online generators allow you to type in your text and have the software auto-generate the correct font, spacing, and mana symbols. Never type text manually in Photoshop; you will get the kerning (spacing between letters) wrong, which is a dead giveaway of a fake.
- GSM: You need 350 GSM to 400 GSM cardstock. In the US, this is often sold as 110lb to 130lb cover stock.
- Color: Bright White. Standard printer paper is off-white. MTG cards are stark white.
- Core: If you can find "Black Core" poster board, use it. It helps pass the light test.
- 3M Super 77: A spray adhesive that is popular because it doesn't warp the paper as much as liquid glue.
- Mod Podge: Often used for a DIY finish, but can leave a texture.
- Double-Sided Tape: High-tack double-sided tape (like the red tape used in nail technology) is cleaner than spray glue but harder to align.
- The Tool: Do not use scissors. Buy a corner rounder punch (usually 1/4 inch radius).
- Technique: Punch the corners *after* gluing/trimming. Be very careful not to tear the laminate or paper if you glued it.
- [ ] Assets: High DPI (300+) scans, formatted in MSE or similar.
- [ ] Stock: 350 GSM cardstock or real card backing.
- [ ] Printer: High-quality inkjet (for color depth) or Laser (for crisp text).
- [ ] Finish: Satin or Matte spray to reduce glare (avoid glossy spray).
- [ ] Corners: Rounded with a 1/4 inch punch.
- [ ] Sleeves: Always use opaque sleeves to mask the back of the card if it looks different.
The Challenge: Standard inkjet or laser printers print on paper ranging from 80gsm to 120gsm. Real cards are effectively 350gsm+. Furthermore, printer paper is translucent; if you hold a standard printed proxy up to a light, you can see right through it.
---
Phase 1: Sourcing High-Resolution Assets
The most common failure point in printing proxies is low-resolution art. You cannot simply take a picture of a card with your phone. You need high-quality scans.
1. Where to Find Scans
There are dedicated communities and repositories where high-resolution scans (often called "HQ Scans" or "300 DPI Scans") are shared.
2. Digital File Preparation
Do not simply print the image file. You need to layout the card correctly.
---
Phase 2: The Hardware and Materials
You cannot print a good proxy on standard 8.5x11 copy paper.
Cardstock Selection
Adhesives (The "Glue Method")
If you are using thin paper (like standard printer paper) to get high-detail ink saturation, you must glue it to a backing.
---
Phase 3: Printing Techniques (Three Tiers)
Tier 1: The "Chonky" Proxy (Easiest)
Using a standard Inkjet or Laser printer on 110lb Cardstock. 1. Settings: Set your printer to "Photo Quality" or "Best DPI." Ensure color matching is set to "ICC Profile" or "Vivid". 2. The Front: Print the card face on the glossy side of the cardstock. 3. The Back: Flip the cardstock over and print the MTG card back. *Note: Alignment is extremely difficult. You are better off printing the back separately and gluing them back-to-back.* 4. Result: The card will be stiff and feel okay, but it will likely fail the light test.
Tier 2: The "Glued" Proxy (Intermediate)
This method yields the highest visual clarity because you print on thin paper and mount it. 1. Base Material: Take a bulk common MTG card (e.g., a basic land or a 2015 core set common) as your base. This ensures the card has the correct black core and thickness. 2. The Face: Print the high-res proxy image on a thin, high-quality glossy sticker paper or standard high-density paper. 3. Assembly: * Sand the original face of the common card lightly with high-grit sandpaper (1000+) to rough up the finish. * Apply spray adhesive to the card. * Carefully align your printout and press it down. * Use a brayer or a roller to squeeze out air bubbles. 4. Trimming: Use a sharp precision knife and a metal ruler to trim the excess paper.
Tier 3: The "Dragon Shield" Method (Modern Standard)
This is the most popular method for 2025 because it avoids glue entirely. 1. Printing: Print the card on standard paper at slightly larger than actual size (approx 2.6" x 3.6"). 2. Sleeving: Place a real Magic card in a sleeve. 3. Insertion: Slide your printed proxy in front of the real card inside the sleeve. 4. Why this works: The rigid real card behind the print gives it the correct "snap" and shuffle feel. High-quality opaque sleeves (like KMC Perfect Size or Dragon Shield) make it indistinguishable from a real card when decked. This is 100% legal in casual circles because you can easily pull the proxy out if requested.
---
Phase 4: Finishing Touches (The "Rounded Corners")
Nothing screams "fake" like sharp, square corners on a Magic card. Real cards have a radius of roughly 3mm.
---
Legal and Ethical Considerations in 2025
It is vital to distinguish between Proxies and Counterfeits.
1. Counterfeits: Cards intended to be passed off as real for sale or tournament play. These often use advanced industrial methods (hot-stamping foil, actual cardstock manufacturing). Producing or buying these supports illegal operations. 2. Proxies: Cards used for playtesting or casual games where everyone knows they are proxies. Using the "Dragon Shield" method described above is widely accepted in Commander (EDH) groups.
> Tip: If you attend a Commander night, always ask the store owner or the group if high-quality proxies are allowed. Most stores say "yes" as long as you aren't entering a sanctioned tournament (like a Friday Night Magic or Pioneer event).