How to Print MTG Proxies: Advanced Techniques for 2025

For MTG enthusiasts, collectors, and Commander players, knowing how to print Magic: The Gathering proxies is a valuable skill. Whether you are playtesting a $500 deck before buying the real cards or simply want a high-quality alter for a Commander deck, the process requires more than just hitting 'Print'.

The Technical Specifications of a MTG Card

Before you print, you must understand the physics of the object you are replicating. A standard Magic card is not just paper; it is a complex composite material.

• Dimensions: 63mm x 88mm (2.48" x 3.46").
• Corners: Standard radius is 3mm.
• Thickness (Caliper): 0.305mm (approx. 12pt stock).
• Weight: Heavier than standard copy paper due to the blue glue core and black core sandwich.

Why this matters: If you print on standard 80gsm printer paper, the card will be flimsy and transparent. If you print on 300gsm cardstock, it will be too thick to shuffle easily and may not fit in sleeves. The goal is 220gsm to 240gsm for the closest 'feel' to a real card.

Phase 1: Sourcing and Preparing Artwork

Printing begins with the digital file. Do not simply drag an image from Google Images into Word. The resolution will be pixelated, and the colors will be dull.

1. Use High-Resolution Scans

You need images scanned at 300 DPI (Dots Per Inch) or higher. Anything less will look blurry upon close inspection. High-quality proxy sources often provide "HD" scans that capture the dot pattern of the original printing.

2. The 'German MTG' Template Method

The most efficient way to print is by using a template that fits multiple cards on one sheet. The "German MTG" template is the industry standard for home printers.

• It arranges 9 standard MTG cards onto a single A4 or Letter page.
• Why use it? It minimizes paper waste and allows you to print borders and crop marks easily.

3. Card Backs

You have two options for the back of the card:

• Full Art Backs: Custom art (popular for EDH/Commander decks). You must ensure the opacity is 100% so you can't see the front through the back.
• Real MTG Backs: Using a high-resolution scan of the authentic blue/orange back.

*Note: For playtesting, many players simply leave the back blank or use a generic text back, as these cards are usually played in opaque sleeves.*

Phase 2: The Hardware Setup (Printers)

The debate between Laser and Inkjet is common, but for proxies, the winner is clear.

Inkjet vs. Laser

| Feature | Inkjet Printer | Laser Printer | | :--- | :--- | :--- | | Color Depth | Superior. Essential for gradient art and vibrant MTG frames. | Poor. Often looks muddy and flat. | | Photo Quality | Excellent. | Fair to Poor. | | Cost | Higher ink cost per page. | Lower toner cost per page. | | Paper Handling | Can handle heavy cardstock (check specs). | Often jams with thick paper. |

Verdict: Use an Inkjet printer. Models like the Epson EcoTank or Canon PIXMA with individual color cartridges are ideal. Laser printers are generally acceptable only for text-heavy "test prints" or playtesting cards where art quality is irrelevant.

Printer Settings to Maximize

To get a result that looks like a real card, adjust the following settings in your print dialog:

1. Media Type: Select "Photo Paper" or "Premium Glossy" even if you are using matte cardstock. This tells the printer to lay down more ink. 2. Quality/DPI: Select "Best" or "Max DPI." Ensure you are printing at the native resolution of the image (300 DPI). 3. Color Management: If available, select "ICM" or "ICM (Image Color Matching)" to handle colors automatically.

Phase 3: The Paper Selection (Crucial)

This is where 90% of amateur proxies fail. The "feel" of the card is known as the "snap" and "shuffle feel."

1. The "Correct" Thickness (220-240gsm)

• Standard Copy Paper: Too thin.
• 110lb / 200gsm Index Card: Acceptable, but slightly flimsier than a real card.
• 90lb / 248gsm Cover Stock: The "Sweet Spot." This is very close to the thickness of a real Magic card.

2. Paper Finish

Real MTG cards have a slight sheen but are not fully glossy. They are "linen" textured.

• Glossy Photo Paper: Too shiny. Looks fake. Use only if you intend to matte the card.
• Matte Presentation Paper: The best choice. It has a smooth, non-reflective finish that mimics the original card coating.

Phase 4: Advanced Method - The "Glue" Technique

If you want your proxies to be indistinguishable from real cards when sleeved, use the Gluing Method.

Tools Required:

• 3M Super 77 Spray Adhesive (highly recommended) or Elmer's Rubber Cement.
• Blank Hearthstone sized cards (or cheap bulk common MTG cards).
• Scissors or a paper cutter (Guillotine).

The Process:

1. Print: Print your high-res proxy fronts on standard printer paper (80gsm). Do not use cardstock for this method. 2. Prep: Take a bulk common card (the "donor" card). 3. Glue: Lay the donor card on a sheet of scrap paper. Spray a light, even coat of 3M Super 77 on the face of the donor card. 4. Apply: Carefully place your printed proxy cutout onto the glued card. Align the edges perfectly. 5. Press: Place it under a stack of heavy books for 1 hour. 6. Edge: If the edges are rough, use a sanding block to gently sand the edges of the paper down to be flush with the plastic card.

Result: You now have a proxy with the perfect thickness, weight, and plastic core of a real card, but with your custom art on front.

Phase 5: Cutting and Finishing

Alignment Marks

When printing your sheets (like the German MTG template), ensure you print with "crop marks." These are little lines at the corners of each card showing you exactly where to cut.

The Cutter

Use a Guillotine paper cutter or a sliding trimmer.

• Do not use scissors unless you have a very steady hand. Scissors leave curved edges.
• Corner Rounder: Real cards have rounded corners. After cutting your square proxy, use a 3mm corner rounder punch (available at craft stores) to clip the corners. This single step makes a huge difference in visual quality.

Legal and Ethical Considerations

Is it illegal to print MTG proxies?

• Personal Use: Printing proxies for personal use, playtesting, or casual play is generally a grey area but is widely tolerated by the community. It is not a criminal offense to make a copy of a card you own for a deck box.
• Counterfeiting: It is illegal to sell proxies that attempt to pass themselves off as real, trademarked Wizards of the Coast cards. If you print proxies, you should:

* Never sell them as real cards. * Only use them in casual play (unsanctioned tournaments). * Mark them clearly if a tournament organizer asks to inspect the deck.

Where to Print MTG Proxies (If you don't have a printer)

If you lack a high-quality inkjet, you can use services, though you must be discreet.

• Staples / FedEx: They may refuse to print copyrighted material. To get around this, save your images as "Print_Preferences.jpg" and claim they are for a "personal art project." Do not mention Magic or trademarked terms. Bring your own 240gsm cardstock, as they will only print on standard paper.
• MakePlayingCards.com (MPC): A popular website that allows you to upload custom card orders. They have a specific "Card Stock" option that feels very close to real MTG cards. This is the easiest (but more expensive) 'how to print mtg proxies' solution.

Summary Checklist

1. Source: High-res (300DPI) images or German MTG Templates. 2. Hardware: Inkjet printer (Epson/Canon) set to "Best Quality." 3. Paper: 220-240gsm Matte Presentation Paper OR 80gsm paper + Glue + Donor Cards. 4. Finish: Guillotine cut + 3mm Corner Rounder. 5. Play: Sleeve in Perfect Fit or KMC Hyper Matte sleeves for best shuffle feel.